A quiet celebration at home

Another year has come to an end.  With it comes a lot of traditions in Japanese culture.  This holiday is the biggest holiday of the year in Japan. 

Of course, each family celebrates it in their own special way.  But there are some common threads.

My family has always eaten soba at 11:30 pm, right before ringing in the new year.  Since our son is only 5 and will not be up at midnight (and the fact that I'm not feeling 100%), we decided to eat our soba for lunch. 

Known as toshikoshi soba, the tradition of eating soba represents wealth and longevity.  With every slurp of the noodles, a person reflects on enjoying a fulfilling life and freeing themselves from the past.  They are also looking to gather strength and resilience like the tough buckwheat crop.  Most people are also interested in growing their fortune (buckwheat flour was once used by goldsmiths to gather up leftover gold dust).

We headed to a local restaurant, Kosaka, for our soba.  They mill their own buckwheat to make the noodles.  One of the park moms told me about the restaurant last year.  In fact, we ordered our soba from them last year.  We didn't want to wait in a long line, so we headed over to the restaurant before 11:30.  They offer a limited menu on New Year's Eve, knowing the popularity of their restaurant.  My husband translated the menu and we decided on soba in a soup with duck for me, regular dipping soba for our son featuring 100% buckwheat noodles, and dipping soba with tempura for my husband. 

Usually we have a super simple meal of soba that we dip into a simple dashi broth with green onions.  This soba was much, much fancier.  The richness of the duck broth was amazing!

I learned that in Osaka dipping soba is served much dryer and the entire noodle is expected to be dipped.  While in Tokyo, the noodles are served with a more concentrated broth.  So the noodles are brought to the diner with more water on the noodles and they are only intended to be dipped about 3/4 of the way (the chopsticks don't enter the broth).  People from Tokyo say that they enjoy more of the soba flavor in how they eat it.  I'm not entirely convinced of this.

While at the restaurant, we ran into one of the other park moms with her family.  They, too, were enjoying soba for lunch.  They left the restaurant before us.  As they left, we sent them off by saying "Yoiotoshiwo!"  It means "Enjoy the rest of the year" and "I hope you have a good new year!"

After soba, I went home to take a nap while my husband and son went to the park to play.  Several hours passed very quickly as I rested.  After returning home, my husband and I prepared our New Year's Eve nabe which featured fish, crab, and oysters this year. 

While waiting for dinner time to roll around, we played games and read books. 

The nabe was delicious, as usual.  We even broke into our special ponzu that we made as part of dinner.  It made the nabe even better!

Once dinner was done, my husband turned on the TV.  This year marks the 69th edition of NHK's (Japan's PBS) official New Year's Eve celebration show: Kōhaku Uta Gassen.  If you are watching television on New Year's Eve in Japan, it is most likely this program.  Back in 1963 81.4% of Japanese homes tuned into this specific show!  All the major music groups of the past year perform from various locations around Japan.  There is also a bit of "the year in review" and even a Guinness Book of World Records record breaking feat.  As a person who does not really care for Japanese television, I am really enjoying this show.  It is basically a concert with all different styles of music and dancing.  And I've lived here long enough that I recognize some of the music.

The previous kendama record was for 119 successful catches in a row. 

They beat it with 124, mostly while the guy in the middle sang.

Even though the trains run all night tonight (a rarity in Japan), we won't be heading out.  For the rest of the evening, my husband I will play games and listen to the TV.  We will discuss the past year - reviewing the highlights and fun memories of the past year, and maybe a couple lessons learned as well. 

At midnight, we will give each other a kiss.  Then we'll head to our son's room to give him a kiss as well before heading to bed.

Guest photographer

I was fully intending to go to Toshimaen tonight with my boys to see their illumination.  However, the cold that I have been trying my best to keep at bay has taken hold.  My throat hurts.  The coughing isn't consistent, but when it comes it is miserable.  I'm tired and cranky and when my husband suggested they could go without me.

We didn't want to reschedule because tonight the park offered fireworks in addition to the illumination.  So, my boys went ahead without me and I rested on the couch.

Before they left, my son asked if he could take my old phone and take photos.  So all of these photos were taken by him. 

Luckily their illumination goes through the end of February, so we still have time to go and enjoy their lights.

Don't turn out the lights

As our tour of Illuminations continues, my family attended the Tokyo Dome City Winter Illumination.  We arrived before the 4:00 start which gave us time to wander around the Tokyo Dome City.  My son and I had explored the area when we met friends to play at ASOBono! this summer, but it was my husband's first visit to Tokyo Dome City.

There is a small amusement park ride area, which my son was excited to enjoy.  There are less than 10 rides there, a few of which he is not tall enough to ride (he is under 110cm/3' 7").  4 of them are geared toward young children and he was excited to be able to ride one of the rides by himself. 

There are also lots and lots of arcade games, but we didn't play any of these.  I know arcade games are huge in Japan, but I'm trying to hold off as long as possible, avoiding the obsession I am sure will come.

This year's theme was "Edo elegance ～Japanese beauty".  The illumination was inspired by traditional crafts and the Japanese style of living.

The lights turned on promptly at 4:00, but  it wasn't quite dark.  So, we decided to grab dinner while we waited for darker skies.  On the way, we checked out some of the lights, but tried to walk quickly past since we knew they would be more beautiful after dark.

This tower of origami cranes and folded boxes

was beautiful both before and after dark.

We then popped into TGIF's for dinner.  The area has several American and other non-Japanese restaurants to choose from, including Taco Bell, Bubba Gump Shrimp, and more.  Since we don't go out for American food very often, we were a little gluttonous.  We ordered an appetizer along with our entrees (pasta for my husband and a cobb salad for me).  The real shocker was my son's dinner.  He ordered the pancake set, which comes with pancakes featuring maple syrup and chocolate sauce on the side; 3 quarter slices of fruit; a doughnut with a pile of whipped cream on top; and French fries.  I think I shall rename it the carb coma platter.  Since I can't remember the last time we ate at a TGIF's in the US, I don't know if this is a modified Japanese menu item, or the original.  Nonetheless, my son was super excited to indulge.

When we were able to pull him away from his sugar-feast, we braved the cold, windy evening to see the lights. 

This scene depicts hanabi (fireworks). 

There was even a button to press for accurate noise effects.

The illumination is spread out into two main sections of the area around the Tokyo Dome.  But there are several different styles of display.  I loved the bright umbrellas and carved bamboo (which was actually plastic, but I have seen similar ones actually made from bamboo). 

The "tunnel of love" was also pretty incredible.  The tunnel was generally blue, but if two people stood on a designated line and held hands, the entire tunnel would come alive with sounds, motion, and colors.  So many people couldn't figure out why it was or wasn't working.  As soon as we figured it out, we played with it quite a bit.

My absolute  favorite was the dome of lights.  It was so beautiful and there were benches below so we could sit and enjoy it for a while. 

Luckily, this display is open until February 17th, 2019.  If we happen to be in that neighborhood between now and then, I will probably swing by and revisit the lights.

A sea of blue lights

Holiday light displays in Japan, known as Illuminations, don't end with Christmas.  Most stay lit until at least New Years Eve, but many stay up through February.  They are almost always easily accessible by a train line and most are also free. 

My family enjoys going to Illuminations for a variety of reasons.  I would say the top reasons are because the light displays are beautiful and there is always a fun, cheerful energy found in the crowd.  It has become a tradition for us to attend Illuminations. 

Shibuya Blue Cave Illumination was inspired by the amazing Blue Grotto sea cave located on the coast of Capri in Italy.  The opening of the cave is located over the water.  Inside the caves appear blue because the light enters the cave through an underwater opening which is exactly under the mouth of the cave.  As the light passes through the water, the red light is filtered out and only the blue enter the cave.

We decided to take the train to Shibuya (the lights are equal distance from Shibuya and Harujuku).  After getting off the train, we walked through the crowded streets toward Yoyogi Park.  It was really easy to find our way, as the streets were lined with blue trees.  It was very beautiful.  However, it was nothing compared to the actual illumination.

When we walked up to the 600,000 blue LED lights strung up down an 800 meter path, we couldn't help but gasp in amazement.  I wanted to dance up and down the walkway.  But, honestly, there were too many people standing around taking photos with their phones to do that (and no music).  I didn't think it was too crowded in general, just not enough room for dancing.

About halfway down the path, there was a huge lit up sphere with Google written all over it.  Every minute or so, a song would play for about 45 seconds while bubbles would waft into the air.  People were required to use their phones to ask Google Assistant for an invitation to be able to go into the sphere.  My husband asked and was granted an invitation, so we waited in line for about 20 minutes to get our turn.

It was so much fun to play around in the sphere with the magic of the lights, music, and bubbles.  Some of the bubbles were filled with smoke, which added a neat extra bit of magic to the atmosphere.  I don't know who enjoyed it more - my husband and I or our son. 

The night was so much fun.  The lights were magical, reminding me of the year my stepmom took all the holiday ornaments off the Christmas tree and replaced them with blue lights and snowflakes.  I could have stayed for a very long time, just enjoying the moment and thinking about that Italian cave.

A taste of turkey

Turkey is a true rarity in Japan.  But I have seen it.  When I saw whole birds at Costco (which I'm still practicing to say with a Japanese accent because when I use my American accent no one understands me: Caw-sue-toe-ko) I was super excited.  Of course, that whole trip for me was overwhelming for a variety of reasons.  I also saw whole turkeys right before our first Thanksgiving in Japan at an import store. 

I've always wondered how people cook these huge birds in tiny Japanese ovens.  If a home even has an oven, they are typically about the size of a microwave.  I have actually seen 1 full size oven in Japan, so I know that some people do have them.  But they are not commonplace in this country. 

So, I inquired with my friends.  How do people cook whole turkeys?  One person had the answer.  When she purchased and cooked a turkey, she cut it in half and cooked each half by itself.  I may cook a lot, but that thought never occurred to me.  I guess when you are desperate, you have to think outside the box. 

Turkey legs, however, can be randomly found around Japan.  I saw and ate turkey legs at Tokyo Disneyland.  For the small price of ¥750/$7, I was able to enjoy smoked turkey leg.  A few days before Christmas, I found turkey legs at the department grocery store.  I could have a turkey leg for Christmas for just ¥1480 ($13).  I can't believe they are cheaper at Disneyland!  That is very unusual.  Later on, I saw turkey legs at one of the delis in the department store basement for a discount price of ¥1000/$9. 

It got me thinking, where is the rest of the bird?  Why are there only legs here?

Dreams of green

Sometimes my husband does the sweetest things for me.  For example, he'll bring me home some flowers or do a load of laundry unexpectedly.  When he makes me a cup of tea without me asking, I feel loved.  These little things fill my heart with love and make me smile.  Every once in a while, he does something that is so sweet, I am brought to the verge of happy tears. 

Earlier in December we had on our calendar to go to Boro-ichi market.  The event started at 1:30, so we needed to leave the house by 12:30 to get there on time.  However, that morning my husband was pushing to get out the door extra early.  I figured he wanted to have lunch near our destination, so my son and I hurried to get out the door much earlier than we thought we would. 

On many of our adventures, my husband navigates and we follow him.  He does better figuring out which little streets we need to traverse in order to get to our destination.  There are many times that I need to back track because I missed a turn or went the wrong way.  I am improving my sense of direction, but I still get very distracted just checking out my environment.  The architecture and landscaping is so enthralling to me.  Since we had never been to Sekimachi, I wasn't paying very close attention to where we were after we had left my familiar territory.  I just tried to keep up with my speedy and focused husband.

After about 45 minutes, my husband pulled into a bicycle parking lot.  He hopped off his bike and with a smile said "Are you ready?"  "Ready for what?" I replied.  "Ready for the biggest plant store in Tokyo metropolitan area!"

He then took me past the cute little café to a large outdoor area filled with plants.  Ozaki Flower Park offered a sea of green with pops of color all over the place.  I took a deep breath and exhaled pent up shoulder tension.  Plants make me happy and relax me. 

I broke away from my husband and son to wander around the rows and rows of plants by myself.  Even though it was December, there were rows and rows of edibles, like favas (grown from florescent blue seeds because they have been "treated" with both a fungicide and an insecticide) and tons of greens like kale and bok choy.

The garden store opened in doors in 1956 and has developed into a top notch store with very knowledgeable staff and an incredible selection of plants.  I saw so many varieties that I've never seen before and several plants that I had no clue what they were.  I was especially taken aback by the golden poinsettia and the double-flowered, fringed pansies.

While most of the prices were incredibly affordable, somethings were so special that they had a hefty price tag attached.  I found a couple Christmas trees that were ready to be planted in pots or the ground.  But I wasn't willing to pay ¥9,800 ($90) for one.

After a bit, I found my husband and son and after thanking him, told him I was ready to go.  "Really?  Have you been inside yet?"  Inside?  There was an inside too?  Scratch that.  I was not ready to leave.

I walked inside to find several departments - seasonal plants, succulents, orchids, and dried flowers.  There is also a ¥100 shop and a stationary store inside.  There is also an aquatic department, with lots of fish for sale, that entertained my husband and son for quiet some time while I perused the store.   

I could have cried right then and there.  Without my yard in Seattle, I often feel so disconnected from gardening.  To be in this treasure trove of growing felt like sunshine on my shoulders.

When I found my husband again, I wrapped him in a hug, telling him my thanks.  Taking me to Ozaki Flower Park was the medicine I didn't realize I needed.  The surprise of the visit made it that much better.

While I resisted buying a blueberry bush, he promised to bring me back when I was ready to buy some plants for spring planting.  Luckily in Tokyo, spring planting is a lot earlier than in Seattle.  We might just have to rent a truck to get everything back to the house.