Day old sushi

Every time we go to Nara, we make sure to eat a Nara specialty called kakinoha-zushi (ka-key-no-ha-zoo-she).  A form of sushi, related to the original sushi from the Edo period, it is simple, tasty, and filling.  From the first time I ever ate it, it became a tradition for our family to eat it every chance we got.

Before the Showa period kakinoha-zushi was only enjoyed at festivals in Nara.  Since that time it has transitioned into a food people enjoy year round.  

The recipe is simple: take a small amount of sushi rice, top with a slice of fish (typically maceral or salmon) that has been preserved in salt and then vinegar, and wrap it in a persimmon leaf.  After pressing several of these in a wooden box at least overnight, they can be enjoyed.

It seems simple enough, but one must have all the right ingredients and know the correct technique in order to make it.  Knowing this, my husband signed our family up for a class to learn the tips and tricks.  Hiraso first opened its doors in 1861 and within a few years began selling this local cuisine.  Today they offer classes to teach about the history of the food and how to make it.  This is where we went to get the full run down.

We arrived at the storefront and were led upstairs to their classroom.  Four supply filled trays were laid out on a table for us.  Three for the students and one for the teacher.  

We were treated to a video about the history of the kakinoha-zushi.  After one look at me, the teacher grabbed the copy of the video with subtitles, so my husband didn't have to translate.  The video was really interesting and I learned so much, including the persimmon leaves used to make kakinoha-zushi are from astringent persimmon trees, the fruit I use to make hoshigaki.  The leaves are actually preserved by sitting in salt for an entire year.  This softens and preserves the leaves, as well as makes it so the sushi can be made year round.

The teacher then walked us through assembling the kakinoha-zushi.  We carefully placed the fish upside down onto the persimmon leaf and topped it with rice.  This way, when we opened the wrapper, it would be right-side out.  We then rolled the leaf around the sushi, careful to make sure the fish was on top before we folded the sides and placed it in the box.

After putting all 8 pieces in the box, we closed it up and secured it with rubber bands to press it into its traditional rectangular shape.  We were instructed not to eat the sushi for at least 24 hours.  Historically, the sushi was left for three to ten days before it would be consumed.  Since the rice has vinegar mixed in with it, the fish is cured, and the persimmon leaves have antibacterial properties, it is a preserved food that lasts for days.

We were instructed not to refrigerate the kakinoha-zushi, otherwise the rice would dry out and it would not be good.

The class was easy, yet fun for the whole family.  My six year old loved making his own box of sushi.  When we ate it the next day, he was adamant about knowing whose carefully rolled sushi we were eating.  My husband and I had fun teasing each other about imperfections.  

Since we are not able to secure the right ingredients, specifically the persimmon leaves, it was an extra special treat to take the class and walk away with a prepared meal.  We also walked away with a new respect for those that hand-fold these every day as a job.  We learned that professional can roll over 600 in a single hour!  We have a lot of practicing to do before we get to that level.