Saturday, January 4, 2020

Amongst the skyscrapers

Since visiting Greece when I was in college, I've always admired how modern and historical buildings can be intertwined to create a truly unique tapestry of old and new.  Growing up in the US, with such a limited history, I didn't grow up with a living history that extended beyond a couple hundred years.  It was the first time I had ever seen something 3,000 years old right next to something built in the previous 10 years.  Unlike Greece, which tends to be built around ruins, Japan reserves spaces of historical and religious significance that have been kept up (some more than others, of course) and some have even been rebuilt.

Kotohiragu Shrine in Toranomon, Minato is a perfect example of this weaving together of old and new.  Originally built in the late 1600's, it has held an important role in the community for over 400 years.  People go to this shrine to pray for family health, business success, maritime safety, as well as relationships.  The majority of visitors to Kotohiragu Shrine are businessmen and women looking for job promotions.  This is in part because of the location.  Surrounded by skyscrapers, it is tucked into the middle of a bustling business district.


Although the shrine has been in the same location for hundreds of years, the buildings actually aren't very old.  The shrine was bombed during World War Two and has since been rebuilt.


The torii leading up to the main shrine building is made of copper.  I have not seen many made of metal, as they are commonly constructed of wood or stone.  This one had writing carved into the base of each leg.  I am guessing it was the names of donors, but I'm not sure.  There were also 4 animals affixed to the torii, representing the 4 Chinese mythical creatures which are meant to bring good luck and protection.  They are the blue dragon of the east, red bird of the south, the white tiger of the west, and the black turtle of the north.


I was very interested in the red strings that I saw tied to frames near one of the smaller shrines.  They were tied there by women looking for companions, usually meaning spouses, but not always.  Before they had the red string, women used to cut locks of their hair and tie it to tree branches or the shrine fence!  Nowadays, the shrine sells the red string to tie to the frame near the shrine and omamori (Japanese amulet that brings luck) to keep.  However, they only sell it to women.  My husband was quite affronted by not being able to buy a red string, but it just made me laugh.

Photo credit: kotohira.or.jp
I was so intrigued by the history of the red strings that I forgot to take a photo!
Photo credit: kotohira.or.jp

This small shrine is so unique in how it is tucked in amongst the modern city buildings.  But there it stands, strong in its history and importance to the neighborhood.

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