We purchased tickets before they came, as weekend matinees tend to sell out and my husband wanted to join us. After they arrived I asked, "why do you want to see Kabuki?" They replied "our dad suggested it and it sounds interesting." All of us were curious, because this would be the first time for any of us to see a full Kabuki experience.
Right above Higashi Ginza Station lies the largest theater for Kabuki in Japan. The theater originally opened in 1889, but has been rebuilt four times since the original opening. I've passed it several times, and it always catches my attention as the traditional architecture stands out in the glitzy and modern Ginza area. We were all excited to actually enter the building and see what was inside.
The staff helped us find our seats, which were in the second balcony. The seats were plush red velvet, and possibly the most comfortable seats I've ever sat in within a theater. The entire room was breathtaking. It was obvious that it was all shiny and new (the latest rebuilding was completed in 2013). The curtain on stage had a beautiful painting of Mount Fuji.
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| Photo credit: unnamed cousin |
The production started right on time and began with two amazing dance numbers. There were musicians sitting at the back of the stage and along the side that provided the music for the choreography. It was a much faster tempo than we all expected and the dancing was very traditional. We were surprised with how much we all enjoyed the performance.
After the dance numbers, there was a short intermission where we stretched our legs. Many people had a snack while sitting in their seats. This always surprises me when I see people eating in theaters, but it was the same in London when I visited there many years ago.
Up next was a dance interpretation of a story depicting three wives taking apart a cart and cooking. Although we couldn't follow along the story, the performance was entrancing.
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| Photo credit: unnamed cousin |
It was at this point I had to consider if I had made the right choice about bringing my 5 year old son to see Kabuki. He wasn't fussing or making much noise, but how much longer would he be able to sit through the performance? As soon as I peeked at him watching the stage, I knew I had made the right choice brining him along. He was enthralled. During the intermission, I asked him if he was enjoying the show. He replied "It's like TV, but right in front of you! The show is really good!" I knew then that he would be just fine staying for another act.
Knowing that we were staying, we broke out the bento lunches we had brought into the theater with us. In fact, everyone around us was eating their lunch as well. There are shops selling bento boxes in the theater, but we had purchased ours in the department store just a few blocks away.
We watched the third portion of the performance, which was a play about a man with a sword. This part was entertaining, but long since only my husband knew what was going on. But watching the interaction of the actors and costumes and so forth kept our attention despite not understanding a single word. (There are translation devices available for rental, but we were afraid it would take away from the production.) I was amazed at how much I enjoyed the entire production.
After the third act, it was time to make a decision. The fourth and final act was an hour and a half long, making the entire experience three and a half hours. After a short discussion, we decided to leave when we were still enjoying the experience.
I honestly don't know if we ever would have made it into the Kabukiza Theatre in Ginza without the suggestion of my cousins (or more accurately, my uncle). But, I'm so glad we had this opportunity. If the chance to go again ever comes up, I think we will all be eager to go.
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