Taking a dip

Have I mentioned how hot it is?  Because it is hot.  I don't really like the heat.  But my family loves beating the heat with water every chance they get.  It isn't just my son.  My husband is also a dolphin in spirit.  So today we headed for the local water park. 

We waited until today because the water park finally opened for the season today.  Toshimaen, a theme park we already frequent, has a water park tucked away in the corner of the park.  Since we purchased annual passes that include entrance into the water park, we knew we had to check it out. 

We arrived shortly after opening and it already had a ton of people inside.  I was shocked to see all the pop up tents everywhere.  The families and groups were quick to stake out their spots in any shade available.  We found a spot in the back corner, that was shaded by trees all day long.  We didn't mind that it was a short distance from the pools, as we prefer to have the cool place to relax between dips in the water.

I took our son in first.  I wanted to get wet and then sit in the shade for a bit.  We found a small stream area to dip our feet into and splash around.  After a few minutes, we returned to our mat so my husband could go.  I stayed behind, cooled from my wet bathing suit, and worked on a crochet project.  It was nice to sit in my quiet area, away from the bustle and noise of the water park, and just relax. 

My husband and son played and played in the water.  They explored the play structure and went down the slides.  They also went to the wave pool. 

Periodically, they would come back and grab a snack or just check on me.  At some point, I offered them lunch and they happily accepted.  Although there were plenty of options at the water park for food, we had brought a picnic - onigiri, tamagoyaki, ginger pork, namasu (julienned carrots and daikon radish in a vinegar marinade), and cucumbers from our garden.  It was just stuff from the fridge that we had tossed into picnic containers!

After lunch, we put everything into lockers and went back to the wave pool.  This was by far my son's favorite pool.  Otousan (daddy) went on a couple of the big kid water slides while we played in the waves.  He reported that they were very fun despite only 7 of the 20 slides being open.  (There are three types of water slides - body ride mountain, innertube hill, and thrill slide tower.  Innertube hill costs extra, but the others are included in the price of admission.)  His favorite was the slide that sent him into pitch darkness for a bit.  Despite it being pretty crowded, he was able to find us in the wave pool.  We played for a short time until we decided to relax in the lazy river.

There are smoking ladies in this photo, because they are in the

smoking section of the water park.  There are actually 3 or 4 places to light up.

The lazy river is a bit of a misnomer, because it is a pretty fast current that takes you around in a large circle.  It is so large that there is actually another pool in the center of the lazy river that houses huge inflatable bouncy toys in it.  We didn't pay the extra fee for that pool, in part because our son is too short, but also to leave something for another day.  We went around the lazy river several times.  It is really relaxing to have the current gently (albeit swiftly) take you down river without any effort.

In the afternoon, it was time for a snack.  We could pick from Baskin Robbins, Ben and Jerry's, Dippin Dots, or a couple crepe places.  Instead of picking one of these, we went inside the locker area and bought three frozen treats for the same price as one scoop of Ben and Jerry's. 

After ice cream, we took another dip.  The water park was great fun.  I wouldn't say there was anything really unique or new to me there.  It was just a fun, relaxing day.  When we left, I couldn't believe we had spent over 6 hours there!  The time just flew by while we were splashing away.

Rain, rain go away

I heard today that the rainy season is officially over.  I was quite surprised, as was the person who told me, because it is over 20 days early!  This means we have nothing but sunny skies and lots of heat to look forward to for the next couple months.  Unfortunately though, it also means we are looking forward to a drought at the end of the summer months.  As much as I don't like the torrential downpours, I would rather have them than a drought.

I had noticed a change in humidity.  It is super hot, but not nearly as sticky as it has been.  But tonight I noticed the song of the cicadas.  I once had one of these tree crickets molt right above me and drop it's exoskeleton on me.  While my friend thought my freak out of flailing about was hilarious, I have not been a fan of cicadas since.  Plus, they are so loud it feels almost like you're in a rainforest or something!

As a matter of fact, I am not really a bug person in general.  However, my son loves them, so I oblige him to the best of my abilities.  Case in point: I got my hand as close as I could without loosing it to take a photo of this beetle for my son.  I think I have correctly identified it as an Asian Longhorn Beetle.  It was so huge, I stopped, got off my bike, and took this photo on a pedestrian overpass next to the park.  I shutter at my bravery.

Later in the day, one of the kids from the park found this beetle.  He had a great time showing it off to everyone.  This beetle is simply called the Japanese Beetle, according to my extensive Google research.

We don't only find beetles.  There are plenty of butterflies around too.  They are just much harder to get photos of.  There is a huge black butterfly around here that I actually thought was a confused bat the first time I saw it because it is so big.  But when one gets a better look at it, the wings are actually a subtle blue and black pattern that is very beautiful.  I have not been able to capture one of these on "film."  But I did get this neat butterfly: Argynnis hyperbius, or Indian Fritillary.  The top of the wings are orange, but the underside (and face) are equally interesting.

I'm sure that we will see more and more bugs since the rains are done for a while.  I am not very excited about this prospect since most of the ones we have found have been so huge!

Red bean paste, anyone?

When I was first introduced to red bean paste (anko), I was not a fan.  Who in their right mind would cook beans, mash them into a paste, sweeten it ever so slightly, and call it dessert?  Really?  I like beans, but for dessert?  Ugh.

To make matters worse, it seemed like every meeting I attended I would be given a cup of very bitter green tea and a small confection with anko in it.  It would have been rude of me to refuse, so I would shove it down as quickly as I could.  Of course if I did it too fast, they would offer me another one!  So it had to be timed just right.  Too slow and I would gag.

Over time it became more palatable to me.  While it still isn't my favorite, I certainly don't mind it.  I often get it as part of dessert.

While wrapping up our big day in Ueno Park, we decided to go somewhere for dessert.  I voted for a "traditional Japanese dessert" shop, not fully knowing what I was getting myself into.  Many dessert restaurants in Japan are French pastries (cakes, tarts, and so forth) with Japanese flavors.  Going traditional usually means forgoing the cake.

Mihashi first opened it's doors across the street from Ueno Park in 1948.  It serves traditional Japanese desserts, including it's most popular item - chilled bowls of anko, agar (a natural gelatin), red beans, mochi, and sections of tangerines, covered in a sweet syrup.

There was a short line out the door to get a seat in the restaurant.  I'm not surprised since it is so hot outside and all of the desserts are served chilled.  In true Japanese style, we were left staring at plastic replicas of the food while we waited.  My son kept changing his mind about what he wanted because the "samples" (as they are called) were so enticing.

The line moved quickly since there were 2 floors of seating available.  Small parties of 2 and 1 were seated together, helping the line move even faster. 

As soon as we were seated, they brought hot tea for the adults and water for my son.  We had pretty much decided what we wanted based on the "samples," but perused the menu anyway, just to make sure.  It's a good thing we did, otherwise my husband wouldn't have seen the seasonal special that he decided to order.

Our desserts came surprisingly fast.  My son ordered apricot shaved ice.  Tokyo style is served with the flavor in the bottom of the bowl with fluffy, soft shaved ice piled on top.  A couple of semi dried apricots decorated the side of the bowl.

I ordered the traditional dessert of anko, agar, red beans, and mochi.  I chose the version topped with soft serve and fruit. 

My husband decided to try the hojicha (roasted green tea) flavor ice cream served with anko, agar, red beans, mochi, soft serve, and tangerine slices.  The soft serve was an add-on, but gave a wonder added creaminess to the dessert.  It reminded me of pouring a small amount of cream on top of my stepmother's berry cobbler in the summer.  It is heavenly without, but the cream just takes it to another level of deliciousness. 

We were all so pleased with our desserts.  The hit the spot without being overwhelmingly sweet.  I probably wouldn't have enjoyed mine nearly as much before I changed my mind about anko, but if that was the case, I would have happily eaten my son's shaved ice!

Ueno Toshogu Shrine

I've already discussed how Ueno Park is the park of many things, like museums, temples, shrines, and the Ueno Zoo.  It also hosts many festivals.  While visiting this past weekend, we stopped by one of the most famous shrines - Ueno Toshogu.

The Shinto Shrine was built in 1651.  It has survived wars and earthquakes, and is still an amazing beautiful place.  During World War 2, the shrine was hit with a bomb shell, but it was blind (just a shell) and didn't do any damage.  It doesn't matter how long I live here or where I travel in the world, when I see some place that is over 350 years old, I stand and look at it in awe.  The reverence for this shrine (and other cherished places) is palatable. 

As we first entered the shrine, we walked along a row of stone lanterns.  These are typically gifts from wealthy benefactors to the shrine.  The over 200 stone lanterns were dedicated to the shrine by feudal lords when the shrine was first built.

The shrine has several peony gardens.  But since they are not currently blooming, we didn't get to see these.  It is something that I to look forward to seeing someday.

After the lanterns and the gardens is the Chinese style gate, or karamon.  It is, along with many of the shrine buildings and structures, has been designated as a national important cultural property.  Once glance and it's easy to see why.  The gate is beautifully carved and the doors are covered in gold.  It is quite breathtaking. 

We turned left and went to the shine kiosk.  We paid a small entrance fee to see the shrine buildings inside the gate.  The public isn't allowed in the shrine buildings, but being able to see the outside of the buildings was incredible.  There is gold everywhere and so many carvings.  I understand why this shrine is nicknamed the "Golden Shrine."  The level of detail is incredible.

The main shrine building.

One of the many carvings on the wall (sukibei) surrounding the shrine buildings. 

The other side of the gate

The details are breathtaking!

People come to Ueno Toshogu to ask for good luck, success in exams and business, longevity, and recovery from illness.  While many people simply say a prayer asking for what they need from the gods, others choose to purchase a wooden plaque (called Ema) and write their wish on it.  Each shrine has special designs on one side of the plaque with images reflecting the shrine.  There are special Chinese zodiac Ema at New Year's as well.

Just outside the sukibei wall (which surrounds the shrine buildings), are 48 copper lanterns.  These were also gifts from wealthy people and feudal lords, but are quite rare.  Lanterns are usually stone, not copper. 

Next to the copper lanterns is a small memorial for peace.  Dedicated to those affected by the atomic bombs dropped on Hiroshima and Nagasaki during World War 2, there is a dove sculpture with an eternal flame flickering inside.  People had folded 1,000 origami cranes and brought them as an offering.  A symbol of peace, they are also folded for a variety of other reasons.  It is said that when a person folds 1,000 paper cranes they will be granted a wish.

I've been to my fair share of shrines in Japan.  I find them to be peaceful places that I can take a deep breath of fresh air and find a certain calmness within a frantic city life.  Maybe because they been a place of worship for hundreds of years, they offer a certain peaceful feeling that is hard to find in Japan.  Most of them are not nearly as fancy as Ueno Toshogu, but it really doesn't matter.  I think they are always worthy of a bit of my time.

Afternoons in the park

After school, we still spend most afternoons at the park with our friends.  We move around between different areas to give the kids new areas to explore.  Some days are spent near the frog pond where they catch tiny frogs and splash in the water.  Other days are spent in a wooded area where they climb trees and dig in the dirt.  Cloudy days are spend on the hill, where the kids run up and down, ride bikes back and forth, and play in the bushes.  Rainy days are usually spent at the play ground, because no one else is there!

But this week, we've moved to a different park.  Akinohi is a smaller green belt with a stream running through it.  There is plenty of space for the kids to kick around a ball, mimicking the World Cup Soccer that many of their parents are watching every night.  But the real attraction is the stream where they can go fishing for crayfish. 

With chunks of roasted squid tied to strings, they try to beckon the small crustaceans out of their hiding places.  Each kid has their own thoughts on the best places ways to lure them.  Mostly, they fail.  But when they succeed in getting a crayfish out of the water and into a bucket, the whole area erupts with gleeful shrieks and urgent peeks.  No one actually wants to touch them.  Instead they look and run away to their moms.  After a quick hug or pat, they are back repeating the comical routine.

The exploration of parks is such an integral part of childhood.  These rites of passage fill me with joy, as I thought we wouldn't be able to share them in Tokyo.  But if one looks hard enough, the experiences are there.  They just need to be discovered.

Ueno Zoo

I have given up on Japanese zoos.  I just feel like there is so far to go regarding the quality of infrastructure that needs to take place for the benefit of the animals.  The small cement boxes that they keep the animals in depress me.  I am so sad for the animals.  I look at their eyes and see the sadness.  It is one of those "American concepts" that I just can't let go of - zoo animals are happier and healthier in large enclosures that replicate their natural habitat.  There is a purpose to zoos - research, learning, and breeding.  Keeping animals in cement boxes isn't the way to do it.

So, when our day at the Taiwanese festival was short-lived and the zoo was right there, I felt a bit apprehensive.  We wanted to continue the fun of the day and I was nervous that the zoo wouldn't be the best choice.  But my son had been hearing about the baby panda that was born at the Ueno zoo last year and really wanted to go.  So, I bit the bullet and we went to the zoo.

When we paid to enter the zoo, I was shocked to find out adults are charged ¥600 ($5.50) and children under 15 are FREE!!!  I couldn't believe a zoo charged less than $15 to get in the door.  What was I getting myself into?

Walking into the zoo, there was a lot of cement.  Immediately on our right was a large wall with a very long line winding up to it.  It was the panda line.  There was a man holding a sign indicating the wait was 120 minutes.  That's right - 2 hours!  There is no way my son would be able to stand in line for 2 hours.  We weren't going to see pandas at the zoo on this trip.  I said a little prayer in my head asking for the rest of the zoo would make up for not seeing the pandas.

We walked past the pandas to the elephants.  The Asian elephants were standing in a small enclosure that was filled with sand.  It reminded me of the elephant enclosures I grew up seeing in the 80s and 90s.  But after the elephants, were the hawks, vultures, owls, and other birds.  These enclosures had trees and plants and lots of roosting places.  The environment was changing.

The tiger enclosure was impressive with greenery and several layers, allowing the tiger to jump and leap like it does in it's natural habitat.  It was periodically walking up to the window, giving my son a thrill.  At that moment, I thought to myself - this zoo is really working hard at doing what is best for the animals that they care for.  There really is hope for Japanese zoos.

There aren't any tigers in this photo.

There it is!

The rest of our day was so much fun.  The zoo really surprised me again and again.  One highlight was seeing the echidnas in the nocturnal house.  I have a true love for these special creatures.  My son loved seeing both the baby gorilla and daddy gorilla up close.  My husband couldn't pick a single favorite moment, because his favorite is always watching our son's face light up with joy.  There were so many great moments during the day.

I'm so glad I gave in and explored Ueno Zoo.  The zoo is making so many strides in, what I believe to be, the right direction.  Toward the end of our visit, I watched a lemur bound across a bridge from a island filled with climbing structures to a house where it could rest.  The lemur looked happy and healthy and demonstrated natural behavior that my son was able to see up close.  And that is what zoos were build to do.