Wednesday, June 27, 2018

Ueno Toshogu Shrine

I've already discussed how Ueno Park is the park of many things, like museums, temples, shrines, and the Ueno Zoo.  It also hosts many festivals.  While visiting this past weekend, we stopped by one of the most famous shrines - Ueno Toshogu.

The Shinto Shrine was built in 1651.  It has survived wars and earthquakes, and is still an amazing beautiful place.  During World War 2, the shrine was hit with a bomb shell, but it was blind (just a shell) and didn't do any damage.  It doesn't matter how long I live here or where I travel in the world, when I see some place that is over 350 years old, I stand and look at it in awe.  The reverence for this shrine (and other cherished places) is palatable. 


As we first entered the shrine, we walked along a row of stone lanterns.  These are typically gifts from wealthy benefactors to the shrine.  The over 200 stone lanterns were dedicated to the shrine by feudal lords when the shrine was first built.


The shrine has several peony gardens.  But since they are not currently blooming, we didn't get to see these.  It is something that I to look forward to seeing someday.

After the lanterns and the gardens is the Chinese style gate, or karamon.  It is, along with many of the shrine buildings and structures, has been designated as a national important cultural property.  Once glance and it's easy to see why.  The gate is beautifully carved and the doors are covered in gold.  It is quite breathtaking. 


We turned left and went to the shine kiosk.  We paid a small entrance fee to see the shrine buildings inside the gate.  The public isn't allowed in the shrine buildings, but being able to see the outside of the buildings was incredible.  There is gold everywhere and so many carvings.  I understand why this shrine is nicknamed the "Golden Shrine."  The level of detail is incredible.

The main shrine building.
One of the many carvings on the wall (sukibei) surrounding the shrine buildings. 
The other side of the gate
The details are breathtaking!

People come to Ueno Toshogu to ask for good luck, success in exams and business, longevity, and recovery from illness.  While many people simply say a prayer asking for what they need from the gods, others choose to purchase a wooden plaque (called Ema) and write their wish on it.  Each shrine has special designs on one side of the plaque with images reflecting the shrine.  There are special Chinese zodiac Ema at New Year's as well.


Just outside the sukibei wall (which surrounds the shrine buildings), are 48 copper lanterns.  These were also gifts from wealthy people and feudal lords, but are quite rare.  Lanterns are usually stone, not copper. 


Next to the copper lanterns is a small memorial for peace.  Dedicated to those affected by the atomic bombs dropped on Hiroshima and Nagasaki during World War 2, there is a dove sculpture with an eternal flame flickering inside.  People had folded 1,000 origami cranes and brought them as an offering.  A symbol of peace, they are also folded for a variety of other reasons.  It is said that when a person folds 1,000 paper cranes they will be granted a wish.


I've been to my fair share of shrines in Japan.  I find them to be peaceful places that I can take a deep breath of fresh air and find a certain calmness within a frantic city life.  Maybe because they been a place of worship for hundreds of years, they offer a certain peaceful feeling that is hard to find in Japan.  Most of them are not nearly as fancy as Ueno Toshogu, but it really doesn't matter.  I think they are always worthy of a bit of my time.

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