Day old sushi

Every time we go to Nara, we make sure to eat a Nara specialty called kakinoha-zushi (ka-key-no-ha-zoo-she).  A form of sushi, related to the original sushi from the Edo period, it is simple, tasty, and filling.  From the first time I ever ate it, it became a tradition for our family to eat it every chance we got.

Before the Showa period kakinoha-zushi was only enjoyed at festivals in Nara.  Since that time it has transitioned into a food people enjoy year round.  

The recipe is simple: take a small amount of sushi rice, top with a slice of fish (typically maceral or salmon) that has been preserved in salt and then vinegar, and wrap it in a persimmon leaf.  After pressing several of these in a wooden box at least overnight, they can be enjoyed.

It seems simple enough, but one must have all the right ingredients and know the correct technique in order to make it.  Knowing this, my husband signed our family up for a class to learn the tips and tricks.  Hiraso first opened its doors in 1861 and within a few years began selling this local cuisine.  Today they offer classes to teach about the history of the food and how to make it.  This is where we went to get the full run down.

We arrived at the storefront and were led upstairs to their classroom.  Four supply filled trays were laid out on a table for us.  Three for the students and one for the teacher.  

We were treated to a video about the history of the kakinoha-zushi.  After one look at me, the teacher grabbed the copy of the video with subtitles, so my husband didn't have to translate.  The video was really interesting and I learned so much, including the persimmon leaves used to make kakinoha-zushi are from astringent persimmon trees, the fruit I use to make hoshigaki.  The leaves are actually preserved by sitting in salt for an entire year.  This softens and preserves the leaves, as well as makes it so the sushi can be made year round.

The teacher then walked us through assembling the kakinoha-zushi.  We carefully placed the fish upside down onto the persimmon leaf and topped it with rice.  This way, when we opened the wrapper, it would be right-side out.  We then rolled the leaf around the sushi, careful to make sure the fish was on top before we folded the sides and placed it in the box.

After putting all 8 pieces in the box, we closed it up and secured it with rubber bands to press it into its traditional rectangular shape.  We were instructed not to eat the sushi for at least 24 hours.  Historically, the sushi was left for three to ten days before it would be consumed.  Since the rice has vinegar mixed in with it, the fish is cured, and the persimmon leaves have antibacterial properties, it is a preserved food that lasts for days.

We were instructed not to refrigerate the kakinoha-zushi, otherwise the rice would dry out and it would not be good.

The class was easy, yet fun for the whole family.  My six year old loved making his own box of sushi.  When we ate it the next day, he was adamant about knowing whose carefully rolled sushi we were eating.  My husband and I had fun teasing each other about imperfections.  

Since we are not able to secure the right ingredients, specifically the persimmon leaves, it was an extra special treat to take the class and walk away with a prepared meal.  We also walked away with a new respect for those that hand-fold these every day as a job.  We learned that professional can roll over 600 in a single hour!  We have a lot of practicing to do before we get to that level.

Not just any hike (Part 2)

Continued from previous post...

The trail is comprised mainly of stairs made from wood, tree roots, and rocks. 95% of it is incline via stairs of varied heights and widths, with small sections of leveled out paths here and there. 

Every person on the trail said “konnichiwa” to us. A few stopped to compliment my son or encourage him. There were lots of people heading up along with us, but it didn’t feel crowded by any means. 

Although I tried not to focus on others, I did notice and reflect upon the couple people I saw on the trail without shoes.  I imagine they were hiking shoeless in order to be more connected to the mountain, and therefore the god within the mountain.  I admired this story I made up and even felt a bit envious of it. 

There were a few times that I really wanted to take a photo. The forest was beautiful. My son asked me to take a couple photos of fallen trees and a small waterfall. But I resisted. I explained to him about how some things are not meant to be photographed, especially religious things, and it was important for us to take a mental picture and remember it with our minds and our hearts. In the end, I’m glad photography isn’t allowed, as it would detract from the experience. 

There are 9 markers on the trail. Our goal (even though we shouldn’t have had one) was to reach the third marker. But after arriving there, we felt like we could continue. Up, up, up we went. Stopping to let people pass and to really take in our surroundings. After an hour and a half, we had walked the about 2 kilometers/1.25 miles up the mountain.  It was a 387.1 meter/1,270 foot climb (we started at an elevation of 80 meters and summited at 467.1 meters), which my husband’s phone reported as 99 flights of stairs.  Regardless of the distance or the incline, we made it to the shrine building and the iwakura (place where the deity resides) at the top of the mountain.

I have always experienced a profound feeling of peace within the grounds of Miwa Jinja. But walking up the path brought a whole new level of serenity. While I was out of breath for parts of the stair climb, I never wanted to stop.  I felt supported in my ascent.

I expected to see an amazing view, but was instead greeted by a stunning sight of rocks, trees, and Shinto ropes. There wasn’t a place to see the horizon or even down the mountain.  It was, in fact, the place where it is said the deity, Ohmononushi-kushimikatama-no-Mikita, descended to the earth.  It truly was a spiritual journey.  

After going back down the mountain, we all exclaimed what an amazing gift it was to be able to go up Mount Miwa.  It is something that we will hold in our hearts for a very, very long time.

Not just any hike (Part 1)

My family decided that we needed to take a quick trip to Nara Prefecture to visit our beloved Miwa Jinja.  The main reason for our trip is to buy a new Ofuda (a religious amulet) and return the old one.  We buy a new one every year and it is best done at the beginning of each year.  We also wanted to go because we find this shrine to be incredibly rejuvenating and energizing. While we would have preferred to go to Miwa last weekend, right after the start of the new year, my husband found out that we could do something incredibly special by delaying our trip for a week. 

He has always known that people can climb Mount Miwa, home of Ohmononnushi-no-ohkami, the main deity of Miwa Jinja. It is open most of the time, but not the first three days of each year or during the major shrine festivals because it would attract too many people. After weighing our options, we decided we really wanted to climb Mount Miwa and waited an extra week before going. 

We got up early in our Airbnb near JR Nara Station and boarded the train to Miwa at 8 am. It takes just over a half hour to travel from Nara to Miwa. We wanted to be at the trailhead when it opens to the public at 9 am. The entrance is tucked back next to Sai Jinja, the shrine building that holds the deity for good health. 

Everyone who climbs has to register. My husband paid the ¥300/$3 fee for each person as well as filled out a form that gave our name, address, and phone number. First time climbers must listen to a short lecture.  It was at this time we were told that going up the mountain is not a hike. It is a form of worship and religious training. The purpose of the trail isn’t to reach the top, it is to go on a journey. They said it is okay to stop whenever you feel closer to the deity and return from there.  There is no judgment for those that don’t walk the entire path. (It wasn’t mentioned at that moment, but on the website it clearly states that foreigners are allowed to climb, but they must do so with someone who can speak Japanese fluently.  They must also have a phone that works in Japan, I assume in case they get lost.)

Since it is a religious journey, those that walk the path typically wear white. Since we (and practically everyone else that was there) were not wearing white (and as a way to make sure everyone that registered actually returned), each person was given a wide white ribbon with a bell on the end. We were told to wear it the entire time.

Photo credit: oomiwa.or.jp

Because this is a sacred place, meant for contemplation and reflection, they informed us that taking photos was prohibited. I felt a bit disappointed by this, but I understood the reasons for the rule.

We knew the trail would be steep, so we each grabbed a bamboo walking stick that would assist us along the way.  There is a big box of them in various sizes right next to the entrance of the trail.

After cleansing ourselves with shrine prayers, waving special sticks adorned with sacred paper over our heads and bowing at the entrance, indicated by the Shinto rope that defines areas of sacred space, we thanked the deity for allowing us to go up the mountain and started our ascent. 

To be continued...

Staying fit

Many people around the world make resolutions at the beginning of the year. It isn’t a popular custom in Japan, but some people do it, as it is a time to restart and focus on improvements.

Getting in shape or improving one’s physical fitness is probably the second most popular New Years resolution, after dieting of course.

I’ve noticed time and time again while visiting parks with my son that there is often one to three pieces of adult exercise equipment at many parks. They include pull up bars, abdominal twisting machines, and so many other simple exercise equipment.

While I have seen similar equipment at a couple parks in the US, I’ve never seen them used by adults there. But in Japan, I see them used by adults a lot. It’s nice to know the money spent putting in the equipment wasn’t wasted. Maybe at some point someone will catch me using these machines. Maybe. We’ll see. 

One recipe at a time

With my new attitude of embracing my life in Japan, I have decided to be less defeated.  If I struggle getting my hands on something, I will make the best of the situation.  For example, I love Greek yogurt.  It is something I've always enjoyed.  It can be found here, but it is expensive and usually contains a lot of sugar.  Sour cream on the other hand, cannot be found.  I've searched and searched to no avail.

In the past, I have whined about this.  But now, I am doing something about it.  My best friend told me about a recipe on This Old Gal's blog.

I grabbed 4 quarts of organic milk at the grocery store and a small container of plain yogurt that only contained milk and enzymes.  The milk was spendy at ¥529 per quart, making the total ¥2,116 or $19.50.  It was expensive for a gallon of yogurt, but when it is worth it, it is worth it!  I took them home and roped my son into helping make yogurt.  This basically means he got to pour the milk in the Instant Pot and hit the yogurt button twice.  Then we waited.

The milk came up to 180°F, then we cooled it to 90°F.  At that point we added a 1/4 cup of yogurt.  It was then time to hit the yogurt button on the Instant Pot again and let it be for 10 hours.  We timed it right to let it cook overnight.

In the morning, we put in outside in the cold for 6 hours.  Next my son scooped out the yogurt into a strainer lined with a kitchen towel.  His favorite part was listening to the whey drip down into the bowl the strainer was resting on.  After two hours of sitting and dripping, the yogurt was done.

I left about 2 cups still straining for another couple hours to make yogurt with a sour cream consistency.

We quickly dived in and ate the most delicious yogurt I've had in a very long time.  My husband preferred to drizzle honey on his.  My son chose to dip strawberries in his bowl of yogurt.  After a couple of bites of the plain goodness, I tossed a big spoonful of my persimmon butter in it.

Everyone agreed that it was super delicious.  And I couldn't be happier to know that not only can I get amazing Greek yogurt and sour cream, I can make it myself and know exactly what is in it.